So there’s your choice – do you spend less money on the more raw, high-strung AP1 that requires you to rev the snot out of it (basically a “Type R” in a sense), or do you spend extra for the additional low-RPM grunt, increased safety, updated styling, added features, and improved around-town drivability of the AP2?Įven after you’ve decided between an AP1 and AP2, you’re going to want to spec the car just right … but the job isn’t so clear-cut.Īs an example, for such a simply color palette, Honda made enough erratic changes that it’s difficult for the average person to determine exactly what color combos were available each years. However (depending on what year), this involved a handful of electronic nannies and safeguards that hardcore enthusiasts prefer to live without.
#HONDA S2000 CLUTCH STAYS DEPRESSED DRIVER#
Combined with the lack of driver aids, the AP1 is an edgy car at the limit, and Honda made revisions to the suspension as years went on to refine the driving experience. In addition, the AP1 is known for being a bit twitchy when pushed hard – especially in the rear. No longer was everything focused up top above 8000 RPM like it was in the F20C. Overall, the new F22C made the thrust between 10 RPM feel slightly stronger than the earlier AP1 models. However – the increased stroke provided a bump in torque to 162 ft lbs (up from 153 ft lbs), and it spread the powerband to a more usable duration of the RPM range. In the end, the increased stroke required Honda to lower the redline to 8200 RPM (down from 9,000). The F22C is no longer an oversquare design, as the stroke (90.7 mm) is now larger than the bore (87mm) – high RPM engines tend to favor the opposite. Unfortunately, friction happens to be one of the biggest enemies of high RPM engines. This in turn increases drag within the engine, since piston movement is responsible for most of the friction in an engine.
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The reality is that increasing the engine’s stroke will lead to an increase in piston speed. While both these engines were rated at the same horsepower, they felt noticeably different from the driver’s seat. This necessitated a name change to F22C (for 2.2L) replacing the F20C (2.0L). And that leads us to the most noticeable difference between the AP1 and AP2: drivability and handling.įor the AP2, Honda bumped the displacement of the engine from 2.0L to 2.2L by increasing the stroke. In general, buyers tend to lean toward the post-facelift years (2004+, designated “AP2”), however, there is absolutely nothing wrong with an “AP1” S2000 (2000-2003) – especially since these early cars rev to a stratospheric 9,000 RPM.
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On paper, the 2002+ models are the ones to go for, as these have glass rear windows, revised suspension, etc. In truth, there is no definitive “best year” S2000. So the question is … what are the best years to buy? It was such a phenomenal achievement that 10 years would pass until another carmaker (Ferrari) could beat the S2000’s specific output (125bhp per liter with the 458).Īmazingly, the F20C operates cleanly enough to qualify the S2000 as a Low-Emission Vehicle (LEV)! Honda reliability, affordable parts, track-capable, and high resale value – how much more can you ask for? This explains why everyone wants one, and it’s why Honda kept it in production for nearly 10 years. It took the world by storm when it debuted with a 9,000 RPM 2.0L F20C engine that broke the record for the highest specific output of any naturally aspirated production engine in the world (120bhp per liter). We look forward to sharing Collector related insights, vehicle spotlights, buying tips, & much more.
#HONDA S2000 CLUTCH STAYS DEPRESSED SERIES#
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